Steve's Insider Info

This is where we at Turkey Mountain Traders can take the time to give our clients and friends a glimpse into how we look at the art we sell.

Every month, we'll look at one topic in depth, and readers will learn about what technical aspects are important, how we separate the good from the great, and what makes something important culturally, historically and artistically.

This month...The Jay Evetts Collection of Navajo and Pueblo Silver Ornaments

Turkey Mountain Traders is proud to present an exhibit and sale of this seminal collection of antique American Indian silverwork.

For thirty-seven years, Jay Evetts has been one of the most respected and beloved figures in the world of antique American Indian art. Two generations of dealers, collectors and curators have relied on him for fine pieces and honest advice, especially in his chosen specialty of Navajo and Pueblo silverwork. His knowledge of Southwest Indian art and culture is vast, and his love for the people and their arts is unquestioned.

In the years since he began his career as an art dealer in 1971, he has handled tens of thousands of pieces. The ones closest to his heart, however, were the ornaments used by the Navajo as dress and blouse ornaments. Over the years, one piece at a time, he put together one of the finest collections ever assembled.

The bulk of the collection can be grouped under one of three types: “button” ornaments, dress ornaments and collar tabs. Of these, collar tabs (which always occur in pairs) make up the smallest part. They were sewn on to the collar of a velvet blouse or shirt, and were made as either straight silver bars (with or without turquoise settings) or, more commonly, as angled silver bars that usually (but not always) were set with turquoise. There were generally three or more sew loops soldered on to the back, and it was through these loops that the collar tabs were fastened to the garment.

The number of sew loops is the main defining element between “button” ornaments and dress ornaments. As a rule, “button” ornaments have only one sew loop on the back, usually directly in the center. Unlike true buttons, however, Navajo “buttons” were completely decorative rather than functional. In his classic 1940 text on Indian silverwork, Mera acknowledges this by saying, “the use of buttons as fasteners seems to have been almost negligible.” Old photos show Navajo men and women using these ornaments on bag straps, along the sleeves of garments, and even worn on a rawhide thong as a necklace; not once is there an example of them being used as true buttons. Most are circular and domed, and a great many have small turquoise settings at or around the center.

While the “button” ornaments tend to be round or oval, there is a much greater variety in the shape of dress ornaments. Most are of greater width than height, and all have two or more sew loops on the back. They range greatly in size, and are a good platform for turquoise settings because they are generally flatter than “button” ornaments. For the same reason, they also exhibit a greater variety of decorative techniques, including wirework appliqué, repousse, filework and chiselwork. Ornaments made entirely of wirework are even seen, though they are rare and normally small in size. Though sets were produced, it is quite rare to find a set of dress ornaments numbering more than two. Most exist as singles, especially those made in the pre-1920 era.

The sheer size of the collection precludes us picturing it in its entirety, but shown below is a representative selection that will give some indication of the breadth and variety of the collection. Included are jewelry pieces, such as earrings and necklaces, incorporating some of the ornaments from the collection. Only a few are pictured, but many more are available.

A number of the larger ornaments have custom-made metal stands for display, while smaller ones have been reversibly mounted on velvet boards for hanging (see below for a photo), which gives the viewer a new appreciation for them as true works of art. All ornaments in the collection can be displayed in several different ways, and we would be happy to help you decide which method would work best for you.

SPECIAL PRICING FOR THE WINTER SEASON
All of our prices are now marked in either green. blue or yellow. For all prices marked in green, a 10% discount will apply on the listed price. For all prices marked in blue, a 12.5% discount will apply on the listed price. For all prices marked in yellow, a 15% discount will apply on the listed price. Additional discounts may apply--please contact us for further details.

Please email or call us at (480) 423-8777 and we can help you find your own special part of the Evetts Collection.

A selection of smaller single buttons, each of which is priced at $50. In all of the group button photos, there is a penny for scale, and each button can be referenced by photo number and number within the photo. $50 each. (Buttons 50 #1) Inquire/Order	This is a wonderful large button with a lovely old blue stone. Repousse, stamp and chisel work can all be seen on this handsome piece. 2" diameter. $295 (B 4049) Inquire/Order	A gorgeous, heavy set of dress ornaments with crisp, clean stampwork and some lovely stones. At 2 3/8" wide and 1 3/8" high, the individual ornaments in this set are quite large and clearly meant for special occasions. $1100 (B 4042) Inquire/Order

Another group of fine smaller buttons, each priced at $50. To purchase an individual button, please call or email and reference the picture number and button number. (Buttons 50 #2) Inquire/Order	Concha-shaped button with terrific stampwork and reminiscent of Austin Wilson and the other great Navajo smiths of the 1930s. Lovely domed center stone. 2 1/4" long, 1 13/16" wide. $295 (B 4046) Inquire/Order	Another assortment of smaller buttons priced at $50 each, once again showcasing silverwork styles and methods and representing different periods. (Buttons 50 #3) Inquire/Order

The final group of smaller buttons available for $50 each. (Buttons 50 #4) Inquire/Order	A group of slightly larger buttons, each priced at $75 (Buttons 75 #1) Inquire/Order	Another group of buttons, priced at $75 per button. Like in the other groups, the quality and variety of the collection is clearly shown. (Buttons 75 #2) Inquire/Order

A lovely and graceful pair of straight collar tabs with wirework and 6 turquoise, c. 1935. 7/8" wide, 4 3/16" long. $695 (CT 4004) Inquire/Order	A nice repoussed dress ornament c. 1900-1910. This one was converted to a pin a while ago, probably before World War II, and has a c-clasp pin. 2 1/4" long, 1 1/8" high. $1000 (D 2006) Inquire/Order	Navajo silver and turquoise dress ornament from the Evetts Collection, c. 1930. A very creative piece, made soldering a large button together with two other ornaments. Absolutely unique and wonderful. 4" wide. $950 with custom stand (Evetts D4005) Inquire/Order

This is an absolutely wonderful dress ornament with great scale, stampwork, and a great stone. This piece is pictured in Paula Baxter's book, SOUTHWEST SILVER JEWELRY. 2 3/16" high, 15/16" wide. $895 (D 2019) Inquire/Order	A group of larger buttons, each priced at $95. (Buttons 95 #1) Inquire/Order	These dress ornaments are earlier and have wonderful old stones that were imaginatively set on an angle and decorated with applied drops and some very simple wirework. 2 1/4" long by 1/2" wide. $500 (D 2011) Inquire/Order

The final grouping of individual buttons, each button priced at $95. Each one is a little work of art in its own right. (Buttons 95 #2) Inquire/Order	A beautiful all-turquoise dress ornament has been converted to a necklace by attaching the beads to the sew loops on the back. The stones on this piece are lovely. 15 1/2" long, ornament is 2 1/4" by 7/8". $495 (N JE/02) Inquire/Order	A set of 5 dainty buttons were strung on a silver chain to make this very attractive and wearable necklace. Note the delicate stampwork and different stone shapes. 15 1/2" long. SOLD (N JE/04) Inquire/Order